French Guiana is a French department in the Amazonia region of South America, bordering the North Atlantic Ocean, between Brazil and Suriname. It is governed as an overseas province of France with same rights and privileges granted to all other French departments and benefits financially from the arrangement.
French Guiana is a tiny country of cleaned-up colonial architecture, eerie prison-camp history and some of the world's most diverse plant and animal life. It's a strange mix of French law and rainforest humidity where only a few destinations along the coast are easily accessed and travel can be frustratingly difficult as well as expensive. As a department of France, it's one of South America's wealthiest corners, with funds pouring in to ensure a stable base for the satellite launcher. But not even a European superpower can tame this vast, pristine jungle: you'll find potholes in newly paved roads, and ferns sprouting between bricks while Amerindians, Maroons and Hmong refugees live traditional lifestyles so far from la vie Metropole that it's hard to believe they're connected at all.
Cayenne
Mix a tropical climate, Creole cuisine, sidewalk cafes, gendarmes and voilà, you have the charming mix that is Cayenne, the capital of French Guiana. Cayenne's location on a small, hilly peninsula between the Cayenne and Mabury rivers speaks of its importance as first a French outpost, then conflicts with Brazil and Portugal, the Dutch and the British, then again a French colony.
Devil's Islands
The Devil's Islands archipelago consists of three small islands, located just a few miles off the coast of French Guiana. The group includes Ile du Diable (Devil's Island), Ile Ste-Joseph and Ile Royale. Their original name was the Triangle Islands, but after decades of proving hazardous to shipping, their name was appropriately changed to the Devil's Islands, and how prophetic that name would later become. Known throughout the modern world by the brutal history of the 19th century French penal settlement that was located here, it was Ile du Diable (or Devil's Island itself) that perpetuated that story across the planet, especially with the release of a novel and movie called Papillon. Although a fictional tale, it contained accounts of the difficult daily life gathered from actual surviving prisoners.
Beaches
French Guiana's equatorial and coastal location make it a natural for beach visits. The towns of Remire and Montjoly, near Cayenne, offer miles of beaches that attract kite surfers and birdwatchers. Try Plage Montjoly for kite surfing, there are no surfing schools, but bring your own gear and ask a local for some tips. In some areas, the forest grows right to the surf's edge, giving easy access to birdwatchers in search of the frigatebird or stork. Other beach activities include swimming, snorkeling and fishing. Take a taxi or bus from Cayenne to the beaches.
The Jungles
Much of undeveloped French Guiana is covered with pristine, but difficult to navigate, jungles. Visiting these jungle areas can be an eye-opening experience, introducing travelers to Guiana rivers, tropical plants and wildlife like capybara, ocelots and iguanas. There are jungle tour through reputable companies in Cayenne. The forest can be dangerous if attempted without an experienced guide. Tour companies offer single-day hikes and boat rides as well as multi-day explorer camps, with some options geared toward families.
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